Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
